Mercedes CLS55 AMG Air Intake Upgrade DIY E55 AMG 55K M113


This is a brief guide on how to modify the air intake assembly on the M113K/55K AMG series engines found in the CLS55 (W219/C219) and E55 (W211) to name a couple. Reasons for doing this include better air flow, looks and induction noise.

You can buy some kits (Fabtech Performance (FTP) or NeedsWings) that achieve the same end result but they are quite expensive. Credit where it’s due, they have taken the time to get a complete intake system that just bolts into place with minimal effort – if that’s your thing, stop reading here and go and buy one of these:

Alternatively, do what I did and make something similar yourself

What You Need

    • 2x Stainless Steel Tubing 3″ (76mm) OD: 90 degree bend.


I went for 600mm length but found that is quite long for this application…you can get away with a lot less and maybe a different angle.

    • 4x Silicone Hose Coupler for 3″ (76mm) OD tubing

    • 10x Silicone Hose Clamp for 3″ (76mm) ID Silicone Hose Couplers (79-87mm)

    • 2x Spectre 9833 Inline Air Boxes (comes with Filter Elements)


Spectre Performance 9833 3″ Inline Air Box with 4″ Body (USA ONLY)

 

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1. Removing the OEM Air Filter Assembly

Remove the front engine cover (with the Mercedes Star) by pulling it off the rubber clips. Then remove two black air feed pipes from the front bumper that attach to the air filter boxes on either side of the engine. These just pull off at the air box end and then backwards out of the slot at each side of the bumper.

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The air boxes can then be pulled upwards and off the two rubber stops that anchor them to the engine. Releasing the metal clips that attach the rear hoses to the air boxes should let you completely remove them.

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Fortunately, the OEM Y-Pipe that connects the air intake routes to the supercharger snout are exactly the right size for 3″ diameter pipework so there is no need to change that.

2. Sizing Up Pipework

The next step is to measure up the stainless steel pipework as appropriate to get it to fit in the available space and leave enough room to accommodate the inline air filter boxes.

Using the 600mm long 90 degree bent examples I used, I cut perpenducular through 7″ from one end and approximately 9″ from the other end at an approximately 60 degree angle to end up with this sort of shape:

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You can see now why 600mm length is a bit overkill! I advise lining everything up as best you can in the engine bay before making any cuts. You only get one shot at this!

Once cut, file down any rough edges and thoroughly clean the section of pipework that you intend to use – the last thing you want is metal shavings and filings getting sucked into the engine.

This fits snugly into the respective end of the Y-Pipe. Slide on the clips and tighten them up as you go.

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Insert the inline filters with another hose coupler and pair of clamps, again tighten up as you go.

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3. Reconnect the Intake Pipes

The black plastic intake pipes have a lip that is very slightly too wide to fit under the silicone couplers (and make them slightly too long anyway). I ended up cutting the lip away at the end of the pipe so it fitted snugly.

Again, tighten the couplers around the couplers.

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Recheck all the clamps and make sure there are no gaps – everything should be sealed nicely. And you’re done – for a fraction of the cost and a little bit of time and effort.

Note:

If you don’t want to cut the OEM air duct pipes, they will slot over the end of the inline filter cases but don’t fit snugly without the clamps – the vacuum will pull in a small amount of hot air from the engine bay.

Alternatively, you can use some extended (flexible) 3″ pipework to reach the same ducts in the bumper – the OEM ducting is now the most restrictive part of the intake system as it is, so to get a more even and better flow, it would be worth doing but for now I am leaving these as they are.


11 comments

  1. Really really nice. Love it but am disappointed not to see other E55 amg drivers leaving their gratetitude.
    Anyway I rather go this way than waste 700-850$
    And get the look I want. Super super nice huge thanks for your effort sharing this with us so specific thanks man

    1. Thank you for you comments! I’m glad you found it useful.
      Good luck if you try it yourself – I’m sure you won’t be disappointed :)

  2. Can I just ask did u get more sound out of the supercharger after altering it I’m thinking buying the 5″ filtered spectre 4in/out” 3-4″ couplers but they are really expensive still this is 1/2 price from what VRP AND Fabech sells so sure worth it what u think did u get more whine from kompressor?

    1. The more air the better! The advice I got from Eurocharged was to get the biggest tubes to flow as much air as possible! If you are going for the 5″ I would see if there are any larger diameter Y-pieces available for the TB end of the tubing – if not, then reducers/couplers could work too.

      I didn’t notice a huge difference in supercharger whine with just the air intake – there is more of an ‘induction’ noise though as you can hear the air getting sucked in. It sounds great – a little louder and more ‘throaty’ from the front of the car instead of just the exhaust note from the rear.

      The most obvious increase in whine was from changing the pulley to the smaller one for more boost. It really does howl on boost then!

      1. Sweet thanks again man.
        I seen a guy making a Y pipe for the TB but 2 90 degrees cut ane bonded huuh if some of it gets sucked in bummer so I’m also looking for a solution for that + ordered 2 x 30 degrees 600mm for the front + air scoops hoping the get rid of most restriction because if excaxlty that same reason u describe :)

        What size pulley u driving with?
        Sry all the questions mate I’m so curious lol

        1. Nice – the air scoops will help – when I fitted the intake I did notice that the stock air ducts from the front of the car are bit restrictive (and asymmetric!)

          I’m only running the smaller clutched 83mm EC pulley with a bunch of other supporting mods – so nothing too extreme lol.

          1. Thats still nice for sure but hey lets face it not really necessary right tje car is still bad ass factory thet did a good job:)

            Can I pls ask 1 last question:)
            Valve cover vent hose what dod u do with that are u running brearher instead in case do u know size because then I order rigjt away I forgot all about that’s little sucker “)
            Driving the E55 W211-AMG by the way maybe is different urs beeing newer and all :)

            1. I actually replaced the breather hoses when I did the intake and valve cover seals. Figured since they’re cheap and everything was off anyway, I might as well.

              I’m not running a catch can or anything. If you keep the OEM Y-pipe at the throttle body end, the main breather hose still connects to the crank case from that.

              Should be more or less the same engine wise between the W211 and W219 M113K :)

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